What's it like to ride solo through Iran as a woman?

(CNN) -- "You! You have moto, yes?" An elderly woman, her craggy face peering out from the folds of her voluminous black chador, demands my attention. I'm in the immigration line at the Turkey-Iran border and my heart is pounding as I wait to be stamped into the Islamic Republic. I nod warily, confirming that yes, that is me -- a solo female with a British passport and a motorcycle.