Walking with Wolves in Sweden

A breeze moves the leaves of aspens in the night gloom. One branch holds another, creaking. Marcus Eldh, our guide in the vast forests of central Sweden, speaks like the air, in a whisper. 'They are here. All around us.' None of us moves a muscle. Stock-still in the pitch dark, the gravel track crunching faintly beneath our shifting heels, we tilt our faces to the pine-tops, jagged against a purple sky.