Treasure Hunting in Lake Guatavita

The soldier on the side of the road shifts his gun and raises a camouflaged hand to give our car a thumbs up, signaling the road ahead is safe to travel. For the past hour we have crept past a snake of cars creeping into Bogota for the morning commute. Now that we’ve reached the mountains that wall the city, the pollution is gone and the air flowing in the windows smells like eucalyptus, pine and cow dung.