Travels through the Badlands, where the mustangs roam

At first I walked along the edge of a grassy bluff overlooking the campsite below, admiring the tipis and the horses, but eventually I went down among them. Everyone was preparing or eating breakfast. No one looked at me. Was that significant, I wondered? At these annual tribal pow-wows, a sort of cross between agricultural show, rodeo and fairground, the mood is celebratory and cheerful but they are definitely aimed at tribal members rather than outsiders.

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