The timeless beauty of Bhutan

Wandering over to a row of windows, I looked out onto the valley toward the mountain pass where, for centuries, Tibetan traders, lamas, and, sometimes, warriors made their way on foot to Bhutan. Smoke rose from the houses of Paro, in which families were preparing their evening meals (no doubt ema datsi, the fiery dish of chilies and cheese that’s the daily staple).