The Oldest Bar in Seville

Calimocho in Madrid I want to tell you about drinking calimocho, but first—the world being what it is—I have to tell you about the austerity riots. Truth is, I can’t recall the taste of that unfortunate concoction without recalling the circumstances of its consumption, which means the financial crisis and its aftermath, civilization and its discontents; protestors, riot police, tear gas, illegal beer, Early Netherlandish art.