The desolate and dazzling English-Scottish border

“The weather’s decent. Let’s pop up to the border and look at the volcano.” It’s not really a proposal you expect to hear in Britain. An hour later, having hiked from the small Northumberland town of Wooler to the summit of Humbleton Hill, we arrive at a cairn and are greeted by two cackling black grouse and the hunched silhouette of our volcano: the Cheviot....."