The best trail you’ve likely never heard of is on Canada’s east coast

ST. JOHN’S, Newfoundland — If breakfast says a lot about a place, St. John’s offered fortitude. Salted cod cakes, fried eggs, butter-drenched toast and a touton (savory fried dough) filled my steaming plate at the Celtic Hearth. In Canada’s Eastern Provinces, even summer days can bring stinging winds, wild seas, and bracing chills.