Searching for Johannesburg's soul on the polluted Jukskei River

My idea to walk Johannesburg's infamously polluted Jukskei River sank almost as soon as I decided to do something about it. When you become determined to walk the length of a river there's really only one decision left to make, and that's where to start. For pointers I had just read Peter Ackroyd's vast 2007 tome Thames: Sacred River, in which he announces that "the journey towards the source is the journey backwards, away from human history", and although that sounded like a valid advisory theā€¦

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