On this Turkish trail, kindness is the compass

When I arrived in Hersek, a Turkish village located 160km south of Istanbul across the Sea of Marmara, Refik Ertürk was standing in the doorway of his kahve (teahouse). Men sat at card tables outside, filling the dusk air with the clicking of backgammon tiles and the clinking of spoons against their tulip-shaped tea glasses.

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