March of the Tourists: Polar Earth is thawing. Does it matter if the visiting hordes don't understand?
If not for the wind, it would be another hot day in Antarctica. But the 20 knots blasting around the shoulders of Penguin Island are stripping us of sweat and what feels like our clothes. I'm shivering hard, and working hard to keep up with Heather Lynch, 5 feet 4 inches of science dynamo, robin's-egg-blue rubber boots pistoning through knee-deep snow with manic determination.
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