Las Vegas, Off the Eaten Path

LAS VEGAS — Perched at the counter of Sweets Raku, a small, year-old dessert restaurant where almost everything is the gleaming white of a new iPhone charger, I chose a three-course tasting from a rice-paper menu printed in gold.Mio Ogasawara, the chef and a native of Japan, set a drum of coconut panna cotta in a wineglass, and surrounded it with buttons of mango mousse, balls of cantaloupe sorbet and bananas she had caramelized with a blowtorch.