In Tokyo, A Bowl of Udon That is Famous

When I say that these udon noodles are famous, what I mean to say is that my father-in-law still talks about them, without prompt occasionally, some two years after he slurped his bowl dry. When I say that this eight- to ten-seat soba/udon stall, located within the compact maze of yakitori joints and izakayas clustered in what’s known as Piss Alley, just outside Shinjuku Station—one of the most wonderful train stations in which you will ever step foot—is famous, what I mean…