In Death Valley, a Jeep, back roads and a whole new perspective

It took me several trips here to realize this, but if you know where to look and time it right, Death Valley is one giggle after another.Sure, it's vast, wind-raked, sun-baked and empty-seeming. Yes, it will confirm your puniness in the universe. And it might kill you if you're in the wrong place at the wrong time without water or cover.