In Amsterdam’s Red Light District, Beer Quay Reclamation

Smiling through a stringy blond beard, forearm covered in tattoos and his skinny jeans not quite skinny enough for a snug hug on his lithe, lean frame, the bartender tries to describe Brouwerij de Prael’s Wisselend. It’s the only beer of 11 on tap at the Amsterdam microbrewery’s cozy tasting room without a beer style or ABV listed on a wall-mounted menu made of wooden slats — maybe that’s because it doesn’t exactly have a style or a set alcohol content.