Explore the heart of Australia

It is clear that we stick out like a sore thumb at the Emmdale Roadhouse. "So what are you fellas doing here?" asks the barman. Emmdale is an isolated stop in the vast undulating plain of pink and burnt orange at the heart of Australia. "We're doing a pub crawl," I tell him. He raises an eyebrow in a manner at once sceptical and disapproving.