En route to Machu Picchu, homestays in Ollantaytambo, Peru

The nearly bare room has unadorned white walls and twin beds with thick, alpaca wool blankets beneath polyester covers. A shower curtain hangs from a mop handle to screen off a small bathroom, but there’s no hot water or heat. On a small table with a single chair is the one thing that turns these Spartan accommodations into a warm home for a night: four fresh red roses in a jar.

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