Coping with La Paz: a City of Cold, Colour and Contradiction

“I don't believe in the gods, but last night I prayed to them that you would come – and you did! And now I believe in them!” The man's eyes were bright as he towered above me. I sat uncomfortably in the chair he offered, wishing he'd at least sit down too. The restaurant around us was empty – no small wonder, as it was 4pm – and I wondered how on earth I was going to get out.