Chengdu chef Lan Guijun: the new emperor of Chinese gastronomy

China is the great outsider in world gastronomic circles. But in Sichuan an 18-seater restaurant and its magisterial chef are showing how change may come ©Cat O’NeilIn a leafy backstreet in the Sichuanese capital Chengdu, where retired people sit around playing mah-jong on warm afternoons, there is a heavy, unmarked wooden door.