A Railway Pilgrimage in Pakistan

The great green dome of the shrine looms overhead as I enter with a group of pilgrims. It had been segregated a few years earlier. Other than some men selling rose petals inside bright pink plastic bags, the women pilgrims are separated from the men by a glass wall. While we wait to enter the grave of the saint, a woman in a burqa sitting next to me asks what I am writing in my notebook.